Tytuł 44

Stanislaw Barszczak, Mausoleum of Queen Louise-Marie,

A month ago in the beautiful autumn time I visited an Ostend in Belgium. Ostend (Dutch: Oostende, French: Ostende) is a municipality located in Flanders, one of the three regions of Belgium, and in the Flemish province of West Flanders. Oostende, now a major
Belgian city of about 90.000 people, was nothing more than a small village
built on an island (called Testerep) between the North Sea and a beach lake.
Although small, the village rose to the status of ‘city’ around 1265 when the
inhabitants were allowed to hold a market and to build a market hall. The major
source of income for the inhabitants was, of course, fishing. The North Sea
coastline has always been rather unstable and in 1395 the inhabitants decided
to build a new Oostende behind large dikes and further away from the always
threatening sea. The strategic position on the North Sea coast had major
advantages for Oostende as a harbor but also proved to be a source of trouble.
The city was frequently taken, destroyed and rampaged by conquering armies.
After their independence from the Spanish Empire, the Dutch had preserved some
strongholds in the Southern Netherlands, such as the cities of Nieuwpoort and
Oostende. Between 1601 and 1604 the Spanish army succeeded in taking Oostende
from the ‘Geuzen-Protestant Dutch seperationists’. After this era Oostende
turned into a quiet harbor of some importance. In 1722 the Dutch closed off the
entrance to the harbor of Antwerp. Therefore, Oostende rose in importance
because the city provided an alternative entrance to the sea. The Southern
Netherlands (now Belgium) had became part of the Austrian Empire. The Austrian
Emperor Charles VI granted the city the trade monopoly with Africa and the
Far-East. The ‘Oostendse Compagnie’ (the Ostend trade society) was allowed to
found colonies overseas. However, in 1727 the ‘Oostendse Compagnie’ was forced
to stop its activities because of Dutch and British pressure. Holland and
Britain would not allow competitors on the international trade level. But
nations regarded international trade as their privilege. In later times the
harbor of Oostende continued to expand because the harbor dock, as well as the
traffic connections with the hinterland, were improved. In 1838 a railway
connection with Brussels was constructed. Oostende became a transit harbor to
England in 1846 when the first Ferryboat sailed to Dover. Very important for
the image of the city was the attention it started to receive from the Belgian kings
Leopold I and Leopold II. Both liked to spent their vacations in Oostende.
Important monuments and villas were built to please the Royal Family. The rest
of aristocratic Belgium followed and soon Oostende became known as “The
Queen of the Belgian sea-side resorts”. Oostende has always been called ‘The
Queen of the Belgian Sea-side resorts’, mainly because of the city’s connection
with the Belgian Royal Family. The first king Leopold I, owned a house in
Oostende (Langestraat 69 ). It was here that his wife, Belgium’s first Queen
Louise-Marie d’Orleans died in 1850 at the age of 38. Today is the museum of
hers here, that I’ve visited with great pleasure. The museum tells you Ostend’s
fascinating life story and also casts light on its future. A host of objects,
posters, documents and multimedia applications reveal the secrets behind the
development of the city, its tourism, fishing industry and shipping. Discover
the Ostend of former times and the most famous resident of the premises,
Louise-Marie, the first Belgian queen. She shows a strong presence, and even
has her say. Not accessible to wheelchair users. The former royal villa, built
by Leopold II but renovated after W.W.II by the architect Dugardijn, now
harbors a luxurious hotel. Not far from here is the equestrian statue of
Leopold II. In the church of St. Peter and St. Paul stands the mausoleum of
Queen Louise-Marie, wife of King Leopold I. Belgium’s first queen led a short
and unhappy life. At the age of twenty she had to marry Leopold of Saxonia
Coburg who had accepted to be the first king of the newly created Belgian
State. This over-romantic woman dearly loved her lying and cheating husband.
Very often the Belgian press,as well as the Belgian population, who were
angered by the amorous scandals of Leopold took the side of the sad and lonely
queen. She died in Oostende in October 1850. Her white marble mausoleum was made
in 1859 by K. Fraikin. It was, however, King Leopold II who gave Oostende its
royal character. He had several villas built as from 1874. He liked Oostende so
much that he regularly met with criticism on his neglecting the capital
Brussels. Also, rumor quickly spread that Leopold II, who had numerous
mistresses, preferred to be away from his wife in Brussels and spend more time
in Oostende for his frequent amorous escapades. He rewarded the hospitality of
the city with the construction of some magnificent monuments. Later Belgian
kings tended to stay away from Oostende. Leopold III preferred Knokke and his
successor, King Boudewijn, preferred to spend his holidays in Spain, the home
country of his wife Queen Fabiola. At the extreme Western side of the Sea
Promenade King Leopold II had a 390m long gallery constructed in 1906. This
beautiful promenade with its white columns in Belle-Epoque style goes from the
Royal Villa to the Wellington horse-racing tracks. The elegant gallery with its
Toscan columns was built by the French architect Charles Girault. At the end of
the gallery is a small but beautiful pavilion. It is known as the ‘Venetian
Gallery’. Other places and names remind us of the connection between Oostende
and the Royal Family. In front of the St. Peter and St. Paul’s church is a statue
for King Albert I and his wife Queen Elisabeth. Both monarchs symbolize the resistance
and the endurance of the Belgian people during the First World War. Furthermore,
there are numerous streets and parks in the city that have received the name of
one of the members of the Royal Family : Leopold II Avenue, Maria Hendrika
Park, Elisabeth Avenue, Throne street, Albert I Promenade, Queen Astrid Avenue,
Leopold III Avenue, Queen’s Avenue, Princess Stephanie Square, Marie José
Square, and so on….When like a visitor arrive in Oostende from the railway
station my attention is immediately captured by the twin towers of the Saint
Peter and Saint Paul’s church. This neo-gothic church, built in 1904-1905, was
designed by architect Delacenserie. The use of sandstone sets it apart from
other churches in the Province of West-Flanders that are mostly entirely built
with bricks. Inside the church is the mausoleum for Belgium’s first queen
Louise-Marie who died in Oostende in 1850. The stained-glass windows show the
portraits of different Belgian Kings. Before the trip to Ostend contacted a
priest Pastor this beautiful temple, who wrote to me:  ”Révérend Père, Vendredy le 21 septembre ik ya un enterrement à 10.00 u. Je vais être au secrétariat, Dekenijstraat 10 à
11.00 u. Vous-êtes le bien-venu. Cordialement, Antoon Wullepit.” In the
Basilica, I attended the mass burial with his participation. Next to the church
is an older tower (the ‘Peperbusse’) a remainder of the former church from the
18th century that stood here before it was destroyed by fire in 1896.The first
stone of the tower itself was laid on July the 20th 1478. The tower now houses
a small museum… In Oostende I stayed in a humble hotel “Ambassador”
near the beach. But one of the entrance gates to Oostende is the railway station. This building in
eclectic style with Baroque elements was constructed in 1910-1913. Next to the
statue of King Leopold II rises the ‘Thermae Palace Hotel’, which was always
the most prestigious hotel in Oostende.The hotel, together with the 390 m long
gallery is one of the most impressive and elegant constructions of the Belgian
coast. As befits a city with a past heavily depending on fishermen, Oostende
has a monument for the sailors and fishermen who died at sea. The monument
represents a sailor who is standing on a column while holding out against the
wind from across the sea.A bit further up the Albert I promenade stands the by Savings Sidekick” href=”http://www.trabel.com/oostende/oostende-monuments.htm”>Casino of Oostende, one of the largest casinos in Europe. It was built in 1953 according to plans
designed by architect Stijnen. Since more than 150 years it has been one of the
attraction poles for visitors of the city. The present building is the fourth
Casino to occupy this spot. Above the entrance is a sculpture by Oscar Jespers,
‘The four elements’. The games room is decorated with frescoes by the famous
Belgian painter Paul Delvaux. Oostende is planning a complete renovation of the
casino. Another option exists: building a complete by Savings Sidekick” href=”http://www.trabel.com/oostende/oostende-monuments.htm”>new casino complex on an
artificial island in front of the beach… Fishing used to be the main source of
income for the inhabitants of Oostende. In the Middle-Ages the early city was
mainly a settlement for fishermen. Not so long ago, 1 out of 4 families lived
from fishing…Still today, fish is omnipresent in Oostende. Of course, there are
the numerous restaurants were delicious fish preparations are served. For the
visitor a stroll alongside the ‘Visserskaai’ is really a must. When coming from
the railway station in the direction of the beach, one can first of all see the
fisher-boats that wait here before their next trip begins. There is a large
fisher harbor in Oostende. The most important part is the ‘Fish-mine’, a large
fish market, where early in the morning the fresh North-Sea fish is sold to the
fish retailers. They sell the fish on to the restaurants all over Belgium. The
Oostende fishermen fish on the North Sea, as far as the waters around Iceland. Just
off the main road are numerous fish stands where the hungry visitor can find
every possible fish preparation (mussels, crab meat, young herring
-‘maatjesharing’ – and others) to eat while continuing his stroll alongside the
quay until the beach. Almost halfway to the beach is a smaller fish market –
the ‘Vistrap’- where larger specimen can be bought (mainly sole, plaice,
shrimps). Walking the streets and watched the market stalls and exhibition shop:
some typical Belgian fish dishes are: ‘Sole à l’Ostendaise’ (sole with a white
wine sauce and shrimps), ‘Tomate Crevette’ (a tomato filled with shrimps), ‘Paling
in ‘t groen’ (eel in green sauce prepared with parsil, spinach and other green
herbs)…The harbor of Oostende is not the largest one in Belgium (the ports of
Antwerp and Zeebrugge are the most important ones). Although medium-sized, the
Oostende harbor is multi-faceted. Across the bridge at the end of the boulevard
‘De Smet-De Naeyer’ lies the main harbor area. The entrance, when one comes
from the sea, is marked by a lighthouse called ‘Lange Nelle’. This is where the
Oostende freight harbor is being expanded. There is a new sealock that can
allow ships with a tonnage of 10.000 tons to enter the harbor. From here access
can be given to the canal ‘Oostende-Plassendale’ which allows the connection
with the hinterland. A little more inward lies the fisher harbor with its large
fish-market ‘de Vismijn’. A bit further is the ‘Spuikom’, a large but quite
undeep dock that is mainly used for watersports. All year through, numerous
little sailing boats and windsurfers can be seen here. More towards the center
of the city, the smaller ‘Yacht’-harbor can be visited. Over the smaller boats
towers the splendid ‘Mercator’, once the ship that the Belgian Navy used (until
1960) for the training and instruction of its sailors. Oostende is well known
to the British. It has been since the middle of the 19th century one of the
main ferry harbors to Britain. For a long time the Belgian RMT exploited a ferry-line
between Oostende and Dover. Since a few years this ferry-line has been taken
over by British companies (such as Hover Speed Fast Ferries). There are
different possibilities to cross the English channel (e.g. by ferry or by the
faster catamarans). A special attractions for the British coming to the
continent has always been the Duty by Savings Sidekick” href=”http://www.trabel.com/oostende/oostende-harbor.htm”>Free shop on board of
the ships). At the moment the rates are quite cheap because of the increasing
competition with the Channel Tunnel…What attractions await tourist in Ostend: THE JAMES ENSOR HOUSE. Vlaanderenstraat 27 – 8400 Oostende.
I visited this Museum for a symbolic 1 euro since it was almost 5 pm. Open
during the Easter holidays and from by Savings Sidekick” href=”http://www.trabel.com/oostende/oostende-museums.htm”>June till September from
10 am till 12 am and from 2 pm till 5 pm. Also open in the weekends of the
Christmas holiday season. This museum does not contain any works by James
Ensor. However, it is the house where he spent most of his productive years.
Ensor inherited the house from his uncle who had a shell shop there. After a
restoration in the 1960’s the house was opened to the public. On the ground
floor the shell shop has been reconstructed. On the first floor there is a
documentation center and the second floor is occupied by the lounge workshop of
James Ensor himself. Reproductions of Ensor’s paintings can be seen here. THE PROVINCIAL MUSEUM OF MODERN ART. Romestraat 11 – 8400 Oostende. After
their independence from the Spanish Empire, the Dutch had preserved some
strongholds in the Southern Netherlands, such as the cities of Nieuwpoort and Ostend.
The success of the Dutch, English and French East India Companies led
the merchants and shipowners of Ostend to desire to establish direct commercial
relations with the Indies. These reports were to leave such a lasting
impression in the Republic, that ‘Ostend’ became one of the most well known
feats of arms in the penultimate stages of the struggle for freedom from Spain.
Ostend was recaptured from Holland after a three-years’ siege which claimed the
attention of all Europe, and a truce of twelve years (1609-21) made with the
United Provinces was employed to the greatest advantage. Between 1728 and 1731
a small number of illegal expeditions was organized under borrowed flags, but
the very last ships sailing for the company were the two
“permission-vessels” that left in 1732 and were a concession made in
the second treaty of Vienna. The small Ostend shipyards at first were not able
to produce vessels of that size and so the Ostenders were obliged to look for
their ships abroad. Now this thousand-year-old city of 70,000 residents is a
popular beach resort with Belgians, who flock to Ostend
for sun, surfing, sailing, and the Kursaal (Casino). The Ostend historical museum’s
exhibits include mockups of an old fisherman’s home and pub. Oostende does not
lack other tourist attractions. A city at the sea is, by definition, already an
attraction in itself. However, on less bright days (to describe the Belgian
weather mildly) there are quite some tourist attractions that can make a day in
Oostende certainly worth its while. In the Yacht-Harbor lies the Mercator Ship. This ship is a floating museum that is always ready to sail out on an expedition. The Mercator was the ship that was used by the Belgian Navy for the instruction of the military sailors and
navy-men. This three-master was built in 1931, cost 3 million Belgian Francs
and weighs 778 tons. It was used by the Belgian Navy until 1960. Since 1961 it
serves as a museum. The Mercator took part in several exotic expeditions, most of
them from scientific nature (e.g. to the Easter Islands, the Marquise Islands,
Iceland and the by Savings Sidekick” href=”http://www.trabel.com/oostende/oostende-tourist.htm”>North Pole area ) In 1936 the ship brought back to Belgium the remains of Father Damian, a Belgian priest who had dedicated his life to the plight of the lepers in Molokai,
Hawaii, where he had died. The Mercator can be visited all through the year
(Please first check out the opening times, which tend to vary). Outside of
Oostende, alongside the beach between Oostende and Middelkerke is the ‘Raversijde
Domain’. This is the domain where Prince Karel, brother of King Leopold III and
regent of Belgium in the aftermath of W.W.II, spent a large part of his life.
It consists of a large group of dunes. Because of the fact that ‘Raversijde’
remained untouched by the tourist phenomenon it has now become a very valuable
natural reserve. The main attraction, however, is the so-called ‘Atlantikwall’.
This is an impressive complex of tunnels and bunkers built by the German troops
in both the First and the Second World War. In both wars the German forces had
occupied the Belgian coast and this construction of bunkers and trenches was
meant to defend their position against enemies coming from across the sea. At
Raversijde, one can also visit the archeological site of the medieval fishermen
village from the 13th and 15th century. Another war memorial is the ‘Vindictive’.
From the bridge at the end of the ‘De Smet-De Naeyer’ Avenue the front part of
a war ship can be seen. This is all that remains from the English war ship ‘The
Vindictive’. This ship was taken into the Oostende Harbor by the English
sailors and then brought to sink to close off the entrance. In this way the
Germans occupants could no longer use the harbor. The ‘Fort Napoleon’ in
Oostende is the only still completely intact Napoleonic fortress left in
Europe. The ‘Fort’ stands in the dunes north of the city center. In 1810
Napoleon Bonaparte, then Emperor of France, had it constructed during the
French occupation of Belgium. Five hundred Spanish prisoners of war had to
build it together with bricklayers from the Oostende area. The fort was
finished by September the 26th 1812 . A total of 8.800.000 bricks were used for
a construction space of 8.772 m³. The Fort Napoleon could house a garrison of
260 soldiers. It was defended by 46 canon-guns. In the Second World War, it was
used as barracks for the German officers, later it became a playground for the
local schools. It now serves as a training ground for climbers. So, it wasn’t
the best of weather at this time, that happens in Belgium, so I was wondering
what to do. After google, I decided on the Atlantic Wall at domein Raversijde,
near Oostende. Though I’ve passed this site only in my imaginery like a hundred
times, but never imagined what lies between and under the dunes, overlooking
the sea. They have created a very nice path through the remakns (although
‘remains’ doesn’t quite do it justice), bringing you passed bunkers, canons,
sleeping quarters… Very fascinating to see everything as it has been during
WW2. The beauty of this land is picked up, and never forget.

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