California Chronicle

Stanislaw Barszczak—California Chronicle—
We were already almost there, near the city, on the shores of the Pacific ocean we first heard, then saw an island full of mammals and marine animals, birds. Loud roars saluted our ears, which, on a further examination of the rocks, were found to proceed from a large congregation of sea-lions assembled at their bases. As we glided by, not fifty fathoms from some of the rocks, they looked up at us with inquiring eyes, as if to know why we had come there; and, certainly, from their formidable heads, they appeared as if they were well able to defend their native territory. I could not resist the temptation of firing his rifle among them. It had a wonderful effect on the whole body; big and little sea-lions, and cows, and seals, all began floundering away in the greatest dismay into the water–their awkward-looking movements being very amusing; at the same time, thousands of birds, which had been perched on the rocks, or floating in the water, rose into the air, with loud screams, circling round our heads; while porpoises, or some other huge monsters of the deep, kept gambolling around us, and now and then leaping out of the water in sportive humour. All this exhibition of wild animal life was, it must be remembered, within a few miles of the rich and populous city of San Francisco. Then one fine morning we admired one of a crowd of vessels of all rigs and sizes standing in with a fair breeze towards the far-famed harbour of San Francisco. High black rocks ran out of the sea before us, like monsters guarding the entrance to that domain of boundless wealth. The transition was very great, the actual harbour begins at a spot called the Golden bridge of 1937. Passing this point, we saw before us on the right a perfect forest of masts, with every flag under the sun flying aloft; and behind them appeared, on a low hill rising like an amphitheatre from the harbour, the far-famed city itself. “Serene, indifferent to fate, Thou sittest at the Western Gate; Thou seest the white seas fold their tents, Oh, warder of two continents; Thou drawest all things, small and great, To thee, beside the Western Gate.” This is what the writers have written of the great city of San Francisco, and for the past fortnight I have been wondering what made him do it. There is neither serenity nor indifference to be found in these parts. San Francisco is a mad city inhabited for the most part by perfectly insane people, whose women are of a remarkable beauty. A driver later as a reporter pumped me exhaustively while I was getting ashore, demanding of all things in the world news about this country. It is an awful thing to enter a new land with a new lie on your lips. I spoke the truth to the man who turned my most sacred raiment on a floor composed of stable refuse and pine splinters; but the reporter overwhelmed me not so much by his poignant audacity as his beautiful ignorance. I am sorry now that I did not tell him more lies as I passed into a city of six hundred thousand white men. Think of it! Six hundred thousand white men and women gathered in one spot, walking upon real pavements in front of plate-glass-windowed shops, and talking something that at first hearing was not very different from English. It was only when I had tangled myself up in a hopeless maze of small wooden houses, dust, street refuse, and children who played with empty kerosene tins. However, with some regret, I want to state here that in this short time of my stay in a city I did discover not the difference of speech. “You want to go to the Hilton Hotel?” said an affable youth on a dray. “What in hell are you doing here, then? This is about the lowest ward in the city. “ I do not vouch for the literal accuracy of other addresses and directions, quoting but from a disordered memory. “Amen,” I said. But fortified with different directions, I proceeded till I found a mighty street, full of sumptuous buildings four and five stories high, but paved with rude cobblestones, after the fashion of the year. It was a busy, exciting scene. Some of the vessels brought bands of English adventurers; others crowds of Chinese, with round felt hats and long tails; others Malays; and some even seemed to have blacks on board. At a short distance from the city were moored several small ships, their masts struck, their rigging unrove, deserted by their crews and officers. In that afternoon I were the only person who walked on shore. Around the waterfront titled Pier 39 there were the yachts, boats and the occasional stores. Passers-by, tourists and seasonal youth as the mates remained to guard against all risk of any of the crew deserting. It was just a noon when we landed, but all the world was normal yet. Time is considered too precious here to lose a moment. The town itself presented an extraordinary collection of strong contrasts: there were wooden sheds, and tents, and mud hovels, mixed up with vast stores and large dwelling-houses; while carts, and waggons, and coaches of every variety of build were moving about in all directions, among people from every part of world.(to be continued)

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