Tytuł 79

Stanislaw Barszczak—In the afternoon—However, with some regret, I want to state here that in this short time of my stay in a city I did discover not the difference of speech. “You want to go to the Hilton Hotel?” said an affable youth on a dray. “What in hell are you doing here, then? This is about the lowest ward in the city. “ I do not vouch for the literal accuracy of other addresses and directions, quoting but from a disordered memory. “Amen,” I said. But fortified with different directions, I proceeded till I found a mighty street, full of sumptuous buildings four and five stories high, but paved with rude cobblestones, after the fashion of the year. It was a busy, exciting scene. Here a tram-car, without any visible means of support, slid stealthily behind me and nearly struck me in the back. This was the famous cable car of San Francisco, which runs by gripping an endless wire rope sunk in the ground, and of which I will tell you more anon. A hundred yards further there was a slight commotion in the street, a gathering together of three or four, something that glittered as it moved very swiftly. But the American has no language. He is dialect, slang, provincialism, accent, and so forth, noise, tumult, he loves going to shows such as ‘Terminator’. Indeed, I felt ashamed of showing it. There were no more incidents till I reached the Palace Hotel, a eleven-storied warren of humanity with a thousand rooms in it. In the public room of the hotel, where we remained for the night, a number of people were collected from all parts of the world. Some had been at the diggings; some had made money; several had come back as poor as they went, and much the worse in health; others were about to go up to try their fortunes, with secret hopes of succeeding where others had failed. The conversation of many of them was very amusing. One man especially interested us by the account he gave of his first journey up the country. He was evidently, from the tone of his voice and manners, a gentleman by education, though in appearance as rough and weather-beaten as a navy who has put on a black coat for Sunday. He addressed himself to us, as he probably thought that we had come out to turn gold-diggers, and he wished to warn us of the dangers to be encountered. “I had a good appointment in England, but I wanted to become rich in a hurry, so I threw it up, and came out here,” he began. “You may doubt the wisdom of the proceeding; so do I now.” I thanked the stranger for the account he had given me…

They are the great show of San Francisco. You can find here the denizens of the mythic apartment house at 28 Barbary Lane from Tales of the city as an indelible portrait of an era that changed forever the way we live. The tenants of 28 Barbary Lane have fled their cozy nest for adventures far afield like me. Mary Ann Singleton finds love at sea with a forgetful stranger, Mona Ramsey discovers her doppelganger in a desert whorehouse, and Michael Tolliver bumps into his favorite gynecologist in a Mexican bar. Meanwhile, their venerable landlady takes the biggest journey of all—without ever leaving home. I’ve always been all of those characters in one way or another. The best part about central California is that much of it, particularly the areas just south of San Francisco and the Bay area, are close enough together that driving from one to the other does not involve hours and hours behind the steering wheel. Thanks to the beauty of the Golden State, everywhere you drive is bound to be scenic in some way or another, but there are some routes that really stand out. To get a good look at the exclusive Pebble Beach area of Monterey, head out to the 17-Mile Drive, the scenic drive on the Monterey Peninsula that links Carmel with Pacific Grove. The 17-Mile Drive is open for travel from sunrise to sunset for a fee (less than $10 per vehicle). It winds its way though Del Monte Forest and Crocker Grove, past the Cypress Point Lookout and Fanshell Beach, where seals and other amphibious creatures can be seen frolicking on Seal Rock. Other sites along the 17-Mile Drive include Bird Rock, where sea lions and indigenous birds play in the sun, Point Joe, the site of many shipwrecks, and Spanish Bay, where, in 1769, explorer Gaspar de Portola first dropped a Spanish anchor. Expect to spend at least 1 hour on this drive. I want to mention more about our sightseeing with our group of 17-Mile Drive beach near San Francisco. Perhaps one of the best-known things to do along the Monterey Peninsula is the 17-Mile Drive. A winding road that leads through an exclusive neighborhood and past scenic coastal views to the famed Pebble Beach, the 17-Mile Drive forms many visitors’ favorite memories. The 17-Mile Drive is a toll road. The per-car fee gets you in and you’ll get a driving guide to take along with you. Bicycles can get in for free if they enter through the Pacific Grove gate. Once you get inside, you’ll find signs and red-painted dashed lines on the pavement to help you follow the 17-Mile Drive route. The road winds through a forested area and along the oceanfront, passing three golf courses, two luxury hotels and the famed Lone Cypress tree. The guide map you get at the gate will give a brief description of each point of interest. We were already almost there, near the city, on the shores of the Pacific ocean we first heard, then saw an island full of mammals and marine animals, birds. Loud roars saluted our ears, which, on a further examination of the rocks, were found to proceed from a large congregation of sea-lions assembled at their bases. There was the island located not far on the shore of the Pacific ocean. As we glided by, not fifty fathoms from some of the rocks, they looked up at us with inquiring eyes, as if to know why we had come there; and, certainly, from their formidable heads, they appeared as if they were well able to defend their native territory. I could not resist the temptation of firing his rifle among them. It had a wonderful effect on the whole body; big and little sea-lions, and cows, and seals, all began floundering away in the greatest dismay into the water; their awkward-looking movements being very amusing; at the same time, hundreads of birds, which had been perched on the rocks, or floating in the water, rose into the air, with loud screams, circling round our heads; while porpoises, or some other huge monsters of the deep, kept gambolling around us, and now and then leaping out of the water in sportive humour. A hundred yards from the shore stood a big rock covered with the carcasses of the sleek sea-beasts, who roared and rolled and walloped in the spouting surges. All this exhibition of wild animal life was, it must be remembered, within a few miles of the rich and populous city of San Francisco. You can also buy picnic goodies along the drive at the Pebble Beach Market next to The Lodge at Pebble Beach. Best picnic spots are between Point Joe and Seal Rock and you’ll find picnic tables at many stops. Local seagulls roost on the tables when no one is around, so you may want to bring something to spread over the table before you eat. Even though it’s written on the bottom of the 17-Mile Drive entry fee receipt, it’s a little-known fact that you can get a refund. If you spend more than $25 at any of the Pebble Beach Company restaurants along the 17-Mile Drive, they’ll deduct the fee from your bill. We recommend Roy’s restaurant at the Inn at Spanish Bay for their great views and service. Their prices are also much more reasonable than the Lodge at Pebble Beach, and after the fee was subtracted, our lunch bill was only a few dollars…
Near the town is located Napa Valley. World famous wine basin in California. Attractions: Napa Valley is not just an experience for lovers of fine wine is also great views, blue sky, the golden hills of dignified oaks (live oaks) and endless rows of vines, the smell of wine and exquisite food. There is a chance that you’ll find here the birthplace of your favorite Cabernet Sauvignon. Napa Valley begins for the tourist in Napa and ends 30 miles later in the charming town of Calistoga. One of the convenient forms of exploring the Napa Valley is a tourist train service running, you can then afford the extra sample of wine. We could be reached by car from San Francisco to Napa Valley in about 1.5 hours. On the way back from San Francisco to Los Angeles we stopped at Yosemite National Park. Yosemite is one of the largest and least fragmented habitat blocks in the Sierra Nevada, and the park supports a diversity of plants and animals. The park has an elevation range from 2,000 to 13,114 feet (600 to 4,000 m) and contains five major vegetation zones: chaparral/oak woodland, lower montane, upper montane, subalpine, and alpine. Of California’s 7,000 plant species, about 50% occur in the Sierra Nevada and more than 20% within Yosemite. There is suitable habitat or documentation for more than 160 rare plants in the park, with rare local geologic formations and unique soils characterizing the restricted ranges many of these plants occupy. Still this is a wonderful country, and will become a great country some day. I have travelled over a good deal of it. Not long ago I travelled up one of the most beautiful valleys in the world. At the bottom was a green grassy sward with a pure bright stream running rapidly through it, over a clear, pebbly bottom. The hills on either side were clothed with trees of various descriptions, rocks here and there jutting out between them of many fantastic forms, while my ears were assailed with the cheerful sound of falling water, and my eyes gladdened by the sight of sparkling cascades flowing into basins, whence arose masses of white foam. Further on arose, appearing at the end of the valley, range beyond range of mountains, the higher capped with snow. Though the sun was hot, the air was pure and cool as it came off the mountains, tempered by the numerous cascades. At length I reached a spot where the valley widened, and there, spread out before me, lay a blue shining lake fringed by lofty trees, with the hills rising gradually behind them, while the water seemed alive with fish, which leaped from its calm depths, and with the water-fowl which skimmed over its surface. You’ll all say that was a lovely spot.” We all agreed that it must be, and that we should like to take up our abode there. “So I thought,” he answered. “But as a man cannot well live on fish and water-fowl without corn, and potatoes, and vegetables, not to speak of beef and mutton, and none of these things were to be procured within a hundred miles of the place, I was glad to get out of it. There’s another wonderful spot away to the south, near Sousa, where I have been. There was a stream the river. Up it I went, and then journeyed along one of its tributaries, the high banks of which are covered with trees, till I reached a broad valley. I could scarcely believe my eyes. There arose before me a number of trees larger and taller than any I supposed existed on the face of the globe.

Perhaps people will scarcely believe me when I tell them what were the dearest, constant objects of my reflections during my boyhood, so little did those objects consort with my age and position. Yet, in my opinion, contrast between a man’s actual position and his moral activity constitutes the most reliable sign of his genuineness. During the period when I was leading a solitary and self-centred moral life, I was much taken up with abstract thoughts on man’s destiny, on a future life, and on the immortality of the soul…Night fell over the Pacific, and the white sea-fog whipped through the streets, dimming the splendors of the electric lights. It is the use of this city, her men and women folk, to parade between the hours of eight and ten a certain street called Coloumb Street, where the finest shops are situated. Here the click of high heels on the pavement is loudest, here the lights are brightest, and here the thunder of the traffic is most overwhelming. I watched Young California, and saw that it was, at least, expensively dressed, cheerful in manner, and self-asserting in conversation. Also the women in the church there were very fair. Perhaps two days aboard trip had something to do with my unreserved admiration. The maidens were of generous build, large, well groomed, and attired in raiment that even to my inexperienced eyes must have cost much. There was wealth–unlimited wealth–in the streets. Where-fore, revolving in my mind that these folk weren’t barbarians, I was presently enlightened and made aware that they also were the heirs of all the ages, and civilized after all. And I am more happy now. (the end)

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