California Chronicle, 2

Stanislaw Barszczak—In the afternoon—
Welcome to my website. If you’re interested in tales or any of my other texts, you’ll find plenty here to divert you. You’ll also find archival material, Have a look around. If you don’t see what you need, be sure to let us know. Dear reader mine was not a questioning childhood, and I was willing to accept the scheme of things as presented to me entire. In my tenderer years, at all events, when I look back upon the boy I was, I see the beginnings of a real person who fades little by little as manhood arrives and advances, until suddenly I am aware that a stranger has taken his place. I lived in a town that is now an hour away from Czestochowa in Poland. It is now very different from that of the years of my boyhood. I shall try to set down, impartially, the motives that have impelled my actions, to reveal in some degree the amazing mixture of good and evil which has made me what I am today: Still what I want, I want very badly indeed. This wanting things was the corner-stone of my character. So, for example childhood obsessive desire to continue to have, because I lack money. I am writing the truth also.

Time is considered too precious here to lose a moment. The Americans, now that I have heard their voices, all the beauty of the city is being ruined for me, because I find myself catching through the roll of the rhythmical prose’s cadence of my peculiar fatherland. Get an American lady to read to you How Santa Claus Came to seeworld in San Diego, and see how much is, under her tongue, left of the beauty of the original. But I am sorry for having so little time to visit America that I knew very few people, the Native Americans. It happened this way. A reporter asked me what I thought of the city, and I made answer suavely that it was hallowed ground to me, because of the wonder of nature. That was true. In early December 2010, I found myself with friends in San Francisco. The town itself presented an extraordinary collection of strong contrasts: there were wooden sheds, and tents, and mud hovels, mixed up with vast stores and large dwelling-houses; while carts, and waggons, and coaches of every variety of build were moving about in all directions, among people from every part of world. San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park is a lovely place to spend a day, a place for stimulating diversions, or serene contemplation. You can explore the De Young Museum, with one of the world’s finest collections of Mesoamerican art, or marvel at the splendor of the city Botanical Garden, with its wide array of unique plants and flowers. Experience the jaw-dropping beauty of the Hagiwara Japanese Tea Garden. Spread over 5 acres, you will have no trouble finding your Zen in this Heaven on Earth! You will never forget your visit to Golden Gate Park, one of America’s finest. Exciting sights and sounds await you at Fisherman’s Wharf. The fresh sea air invigorates as you move thorough the wharf, which is lined with a fun and eclectic array of shops, restaurants, and street performers. Enjoy splendid views of Alcatraz and the Golden Gate Bridge as you dine at one of the many world class restaurants on freshly caught Dungeness crab, or perhaps enjoy a bowl of San Francisco clam chowder from one of the many stands along the wharf. A visit to the Wharf is not complete without checking out the fun and lovable sea lions that inhabit Pier 39’s West Marina. Whatever your fancy, Fisherman’s Wharf has something for everybody! Filled with magnificent scenery and an energy you can feel, San Francisco is the crown jewel of the Pacific. Upon arrival from any direction, you are greeted by the city’s stunning skyline that puts to shame any photograph ever taken! Once there, the thrill of discovery excites as you explore the pagoda lined streets of Chinatown, or the dramatic sights and sounds of Fisherman’s Wharf at Pier 39. Experience the groovy flow of the Haight-Ashbury, the bustle and charm of historic North Beach, and the world class shopping and cosmopolitan elegance of Union Square. San Francisco is paradise for the art lover, and you’ll find yourself inspired by all the options; from the fascinating Museum of Modern Art, the classic collection of European masters at the Palace of the Legion of Honor, the strange and wonderful Exploratorium, world class classical music, and some of the best of Broadway can be seen and heard here. San Francisco boasts an energetic and fun art scene. The fun and excitement also carries over to the culinary world. A true foodie paradise, the city boasts some of the most varied and exciting restaurants in the country. There is something here for everybody. Each neighborhood boasts its own particular flavor of enchantment, full of life and showing the famous history of the city and its people. Take the Ultimate City Tour… Dear reader, you’ll see even more: California Palace of the Legion of Honor; Exploratorium; Grace Cathedral; Lombard Street; Presidio National Park; Union Square; Haight-Ashbury; Golden Gate National Recreation Area; those on the island prison Alcatraz in San Francisco Bay and Golden Gate Bridge in 1937. You may see Cable Cars, Alamo Square, Embarcadero and Market Street and eleven crowded hills; Coit Tower of 1933, the gift of living in the city, is set in the highest part of the estate Telegraph Hill; Pioneer Park, which offers a fantastic view over the city San Francisco, including, inter alia, the Golden Gate Bridge, Maritime National Historical Park, Alcatraz, Pier 39, Bay Bridge, Russian Hill, Financial District, Lombard Street, Nob Hill. And USS Pampanito; Musee Mecanique; California Academy of Sciences; Ferry Building Marketplace; City Lights Booksellers ; The Wok Wiz Tour ; Palace of Fine Arts ; San Francisco Guided Segway Tour ; San Francisco Comprehensive Shuttle Tour; Mr. Toad’s Tours; San Francisco Duck Tours ; Asian Art Museum ; Angel Island State Park ; Legion of Honor ; Dianne’s Old and New Estates ; Beach Blanket Babylon; Farmer’s Market ; Ferry Building Marketplace ; Ghiradelli Square ; Glide Memorial United Methodist Church ; Muir Woods National Monument; San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park ; San Francisco Museum of Modern Art ; Wells Fargo History Museum ; Yerba Buena Center for the Arts, Gardens.

Then the next fine morning we admired one of a crowd of yachts of all rigs and sizes standing in with a fair breeze towards the far-famed ‘harbour’ of San Francisco. High black rocks ran out of the sea before us, like monsters guarding the entrance to that domain of boundless wealth. The transition was very great, the actual ‘harbour’ begins at a spot called the Golden bridge of 1937. Passing this point, we saw before us on the right a perfect forest of masts, with every flag under the sun flying aloft; and behind them appeared, on a low hill rising like an amphitheatre from the ‘harbour’, the far-famed city itself.

We first went to the market, to obtain provisions for the boats and buying lunches on the road. It was already crowded with purchasers. Above all, they told the story of the building of old San Francisco, when the “finest collection of humanity on God’s earth, sir, started this town, and the water came up to the foot of Market Street.” When I turned to look again, the little two women were gone…There was a magnificent display of fruit and vegetables, and fish of all sorts and strange shapes, and huge lobsters and turtle of a size to make an alderman’s mouth water; and then in the meat-market there were hung up before the butchers’ stalls. The beef, we heard, was, and found to be, excellent. I mention these things to show how the inhabitants of a vast city like San Francisco, though just sprung into existence, can, by proper arrangement, be fed. There were a large number of the Chinese shops there, where they sell all the fancy and ornamental work. One Chinese appeared to us so much like another, with their thick lips, little slits of eyes, ugly parchment faces, in which age makes no perceptible difference, that it seemed as if we were meeting the same person over and over again. The signs over their shops are written in Chinese, and translated into the English and Spanish I ever saw. One of the features in the street population of this city which struck us were the shoe-blacks. Each is provided with a comfortable arm-chair and a newspaper. There are a lot of restaurants and cafes, or of places where food in abundance is being procured, though the price was rather astonishing. I had some business to transact with a parish priest, I left our group at one of them to dine.

“Serene, indifferent to fate, Thou sittest at the Western Gate; Thou seest the white seas fold their tents, Oh, warder of two continents; Thou drawest all things, small and great, To thee, beside the Western Gate.” This is what the writers have written of the great city of San Francisco, and for the past fortnight I have been wondering what made him do it. There is neither serenity nor indifference to be found in these parts. San Francisco is a mad city inhabited for the most part by perfectly insane people, whose women are of a remarkable beauty. A driver later as a reporter pumped me exhaustively while I was getting ashore, demanding of all things in the world news about this country. It is an awful thing to enter a new land with a new lie on your lips. I spoke the truth to the man who turned my most sacred raiment on a floor composed of stable refuse and pine splinters; but the reporter overwhelmed me not so much by his poignant audacity as his beautiful ignorance. I am sorry now that I did not tell him more lies as I passed into a city of six hundred thousand white men. Think of it! Six hundred thousand white men and women gathered in one spot, walking upon real pavements in front of plate-glass-windowed shops, and talking something that at first hearing was not very different from English. It was only when I had tangled myself up in a hopeless maze of small wooden houses, dust, street refuse. There were the skyscrapers, towers 40 storeys, and slim, high pyramid in the center of that wonderful city with a thousand lights, I never forget that image.

This sunny afternoon I went to church. Saints Peter and Paul Patish at city. I came at length into the tower, the basement of which was open, forming part of the body of the church. I was looking for any friend Shepherd. I’ve seen the women inside the church. And as I regarded them, I thought within myself how delightful it would be if in these days as in those of Samuel, the word of God was precious; so that when it came to the minister of his people–a fresh vision of his glory, a discovery of his meaning–he might make haste to the church, and into the tower, lay hold of the rope that hung from the deepest-toned bell of all, and constrain it by the force of strong arms to utter its voice of call, ‘Come hither, come hear, my people, for God’, if he would have spoken, and from the streets or the lanes would troop the eager folk; the plough be left in the furrow, the cream in the churn; and the crowding people bring faces into the church, all with one question upon them: ‘What has the Lord spoken?” But now it would be answer sufficient to such a call to say, “But what will become of the butter?” or, “An hour’s ploughing will be lost.” And the clergy–how would they bring about such a time? They do not even believe that God has a word to his people through them. Therefore it is no wonder if the church bells are obedient only to the clock, are no longer subject to the spirit of the minister, and have nothing to do in telegraphing between heaven and earth. They make little of this part of their duty; and no wonder, if what is to be spoken must remain such as they speak. They put the Church for God, and the prayers which are the word of man to God, for the word of God to man. But when the prophets see no vision, how should they have any word to speak? These thoughts were passing through my mind when my eye fell upon my guide on the room parish inside. There appeared before me an affable stranger of prepossessing appearance, with a blue and an innocent eye. But with Father Salvatore Giacobini, Salesian, at once we became friends. My priest-friend was merciful. I accepted a dinner with him with gratitude. It was in a room confrere read today’s newspapers, and another wore creche under the Christmas tree. A certain priest sat next to our table. They would tell me the life of the city. Having no desire to watch a weary old play again, I evaded the offer and received in lieu of the devil’s instruction much coarse flattery. Curiously constituted is the soul of man. Knowing how and where this man lied, waiting idly for the finale, I was distinctly conscious, as he bubbled compliments in my ear. This acquaintance had been desired; one who had tasted the cup of life with discretion. All this pleased me, and in a measure numbed the suspicion that was thoroughly aroused. My friend kept his countenance admirably…Then I blessed his associates, I endeavoured to reassure them that it is good in Poland now, and one fellow priests took me to the exit door. It was created anew in me like a rainbow over the local church, an eternal hope…

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