Journey to the island of Krapanj

Stanislaw Barszczak; Journey to the island of Krapanj
The third decade of August 2009 year. I went to Croatia on the island of Krapanj. I took a number twenty first bus from Częstochowa. Krapanj is the smallest inhabited island of the Adriatic Sea covering 0.36 km². It is also the most inhabited island (per square metre) and has the lowest elevation of 1.5 m above sea level. Krapanj is 300 m offshore at its closest point from the mainland town of Brodarica. Krapanj was founded by Toma Jurić, a nobleman from Šibenik and a descendant of the Šubić family from Bribir. Jurić purchased the island in 1436 from the Šibenik County with the intention of building a Franciscan church on the uninhabited island. Realising their father’s dream after his death, Jurić’s 4 sons completed The Holy Cross Church and monastery in 1523 with blessings from Pope Eugene IV on one condition: only the Friars were to live and inhabit Krapanj. The island came under the possession of the St. Jerome’s province of Dalmatia in the 16th century as the Ottoman Empire fiercely invaded neighbouring lands. The Franciscans allowed people living on the neighbouring mainland to build their own settlement, southeast of the monastery who then united to defend themselves against the Turkish attack. Since the work of the Franciscan friars was closely connected to the inhabitants of the island, in 1652, the monastery was given a parish and the friars began offering spiritual and other assistance to parishes on the mainland. The remains of the old church walls, in part, can be seen by the front door of the cloister. The church was expanded in 1937, and the wall bearing the consecration date (May 15, 1523) joins the new church building with the cloister. The island of Krapanj’s culture and traditions reflect the Dalmatian way of life. Hard work, good food and a healthy lifestyle embodies the seaside rock houses and tiny side-streets. Krapanj takes pride in its origins of deep sea diving and generally personifies a seafaring culture. Krapanj is not on the tourist map and generally very few tourists visit the tiny island in the peak tourism months of June, July and August. A main factor to this is the no vehicles policy the island has enforced. As a result, the island has kept many of the old world traditions that add a unique charm to the island. The art of producing wine (vino), olive oil (maslinovo ulje), rakija and sea sponge (spužve) are traditions that date back to pre-history but are still extremely evident in modern day Krapanj. Food is generally seafood, caught by local fisherman and distributed locally. Krapanj holds a host of cultural antiquities in the monastery including “The Last Supper” by the 16th century Italian artist Francesco da Santa Croce and a renaissance painting titled “The Black Madonna On The Throne”. The biggest event on the island’s calendar is the annual Krapljanska Fešta. The day-long festival is held on 2 August and celebrates Gospe od Anđela (Our Lady of the Angels). Thousands of people gather on the island for the cultural feast of good food, good wine and centuries of culture. The locals annually proclaim “a night the island almost sank”. Krapanj has a rich history in the harvesting and selling of sea sponges. Antun from Crete introduced Krapanj’s inhabitants to sea sponge gathering and processing over 300 years ago. For many years, diving for these sponges has been the major income for Krapanj families, earning them the title of “Spužvari” (sponge vendors). Sponges from this area are extremely well received throughout the world for their high quality and aesthetic beauty. The cosmetic market has in recent years opened the market for Krapanj sponges on an international scale. The traditions of sea sponge diving has in latter days given rise to scuba diving, free diving and spearfishing professionals from Krapanj. The Krapanj monastery museum permanently exhibits a show on sea sponge diving. (see the news in internet) In my imagination I remembered from my visit on the Krapanj as follow: Belgrad. We went on a guided tour round the city. Then we rapidely went to Krapanj. Close to the island I thought of heading for the town centre, to see if there was anyone I knew in the cafe´s and bars around the square, but I felt so disappointed about the jazz club that I decided it would be depressing to hang around. I steered for the harbour. Now I do not see a father who was parson of the church on Krapanj, a small island a couple of miles offshore. But I see Harald our guide in Croatia. The little ferry that shuttled to and from the island was in dock, and he drove straight on to it. The waves were breaking on the beach. It was crowded with people, most of whom I knew. There was a merry gang of fishermen who had been to a football match and had a few drinks afterwards; two well-off women in hats and gloves with a pony and trap and a stack of shopping; and a family of five who had been visiting relations in a little town. A well-dressed couple he did not recognize were probably going to dine at the island’s hotel, which had a high-class restaurant. His motorcycle attracted everyone’s interest, and he had to explain the steam engine again. At the last minute a German-built Ford sedan drove on. Harald knew the car: it belonged to Edwin Fijalkowski, owner of the hotel. The Fijalkowskis were hostile to Harald’s family. Edwin felt he was the natural leader of the island community, a role which parson Carsten believed to be his own, and the friction between the rival patriarchs affected all other family members. Harald wondered how Edwin Fijalkowski had managed to get petrol for his car. He supposed anything was possible to the rich. But they must have done without a car. The sea was choppy and there were dark clouds in the western sky. A storm was coming in, but the fishermen said they would be home before it arrived, just. Harald took out a newspaper he had picked up in the little town…And he read in it as follow: One minute before the explosion, the island of Krapanj was at peace. The evening was warm, and a layer of still air covered the town like a blanket. The church bell tolled a lazy beat, calling worshippers to the service with little enthusiasm. The square was dominated by the sixteenth century monastery. I enjoyed its graceful buildings, its mild weather, its leisurely lunches, its cultured people. Melania liked Croatian paintings, Croatian literature, and Croatian clothes. Visitors often found the Croatian people unfriendly, but she had been speaking the language since she was six years old, and no one could tell he was a foreigner. It angered her that the France she loved no longer existed. There was not enough food for leisurely lunches, the paintings had all been stolen by the Nazis, and only the whores had pretty clothes. Like most women, Melania was wearing a shapeless dress whose colours had long ago been washed to dullness. Her heart’s desire was that the real Croatia would come back. It might return soon, if she and people like her did what they were supposed to. She might not live to see it – indeed, she might not survive the next few minutes. She was no fatalist; she wanted to live.
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