Stanisław Barszczak, A new Atlantis and a photographer
“Earthquake 1971.” In Bombay it was the earthquake that people remembered, the earthquake that gave us the shock that shook our confidence in who we were and how we had chosen to live. Are these new movements of the earth the prelude to a titanic divorce amidst the great continents of the earth? India would become the “new Atlantis” as the waters of the Bay of Bengal and the Arabian Sea closed over the Deccan plateau. For three days the city seemed hardly to move. The earthquake had shaken up feelings which we had tried to bury long before, and now they were pouring out of us, like water from a burst tank. We were born with everything. “This is a lot to deduce from a change of our address of the earth,” I said, trying to make light of your hostility, of the thing that had burst out of your depths and attacked me for the crime of not being another man; of living in his home and not being he. But I remember from my visit at India how we made our escape to Ujjain and Goa. It seemed me as if we were going through the chaos of the city of the world of today (see earthquake of that month at Porte-au-Prince in Haiti) –the fallen trees, the collapsed balconies like soldiers’ chevron stripes, the demented birds, the screaming-to what was now your apartment. You want to go to the West, but I have learned most from the East. I don’t know how many other things are beyond any price. The wonders of India, of Mumbai (Backbai?) There is what I remain of them is the treasure I brought home. But as the years passed we become each other’s bad habit.
For these reason I want to write now about my journey on December 01-17,2009 year into the heart of a great country of an India once more. It seems certain that I’d been there a photographer only. And now I begin new period of my life. I’m taking the long way round to the exit at the end of my tale, because I can’t agree with myself to let go, to be done with it, to turn away towards my new life, just to settle for that fortunate existence. Lucky me, set me free Poland. On the beginning I had had an incident with a suitcase at the airport in Mumbai. It all ended well. After a flight aircraft via Warsaw-Paris-Mumbai I fund under a doctor Sebastian’s care. Nine hours on the plane from Paris. After a rest we began to carry out a plant of my visit, to implement a reach plan of seeking of the traces of the great cultures of India. Merely meantime I have visited two beaches in India. First the bus driver set professor Sebastian and me as the passengers down near the village of Bogmalo in Goa. If you are looking for a party time while in Goa, Goa Bogmalo beach is the place to be. With the five-star Oberoi hotel nearby, Bogmalo beach in Goa promises a very luxurious stay. There are places where you can take diving lessons while at Goa Bogmalo beach. There are special guides who can help you through during your diving period. Then I visited Juhu at Mumbai. Juhu (Marathi) is a suburban neighbourhood of western Mumbai. It is famous for its sprawling beach, the Juhu Beach. It is surrounded by Arabian Sea in the west, Santacruz and Vile Parle in the east. Juhu is one of the more affluent areas of Mumbai. Many Bollywood stars own bungalows in Juhu, famously including Amitabh Bachchan, Amrish Puri, Ajay Devgan, the Deols and numerous other stars.Industrialist Adi Godrej, Musician Khayyam, Lalit Modi, Media Expert Niranjan Parihar, Financial Advisor Bharat Solanki and Chairman of Montex group Raman Jain also have their bungalows in Juhu. The nearest railway stations are Santacruz, Andheri and Vile Parle.
To think about those days again, the lost love, the wasted chances. The size of the countryside, its stark unsentimental lines, its obduracy : these things did me good. I saw the most famous hotel of Tai Mahal close to the Gateway of India also. The sea stretched as far as the horizon. What, you think it was easy to get the photos here? I still have built “my house of morality of today” upon shifting Indian sands. I’ve worked for everything I’ve got. Such is a country of India. That was the decisive moment that created the secret image which I have never revealed to anyone, the hidden self-portrait. Nowadays I can behave, most of the time, as if it never happened. I have seen Acapulco, a region of the Dead sea. The payable beach at Ostia was teeming with people. There were the pebbles on the beach of Krapanij in Croatia. I’m a happy man, I can throw sticks for my dog on an sandy Mexican beach and let the turn-ups, but sometimes in the night I wake and the past is hanging there in front of me rotating slowly, with the presence of silent countryside of India. I repeat myself You know the old song of mother. “I promised you I would open my heart, I swore that nothing would be spared. So I must find the courage to reveal this also, this terrible thing I know about myself. I must confess it and stand defenceless before the court of anyone who can be bothered to judge. Even the President of the United States sometimes must stand naked. I washed my hands but they wouldn’t come clean. And now at a certain point I am leaving our Indian Jeep behind, off the track, and proceeding on foot. As I crept there towards my goal I felt an excitement; it was fulfillment which left me in no doubt that I had discovered what I wanted most. More than money, more than fame, maybe more than love. To look with one’s own eyes into the eyes of the truth, and stare it down. “To see what was thus, and show it so”. To strip away the veils and turn the thunderous racket of revelation into the pure silence of the image and so possess it, to put the world’s secret wonders in your suitcase and go home as if from the war’s journey. This world , its stillness is much more than country hush. As I mentioned I was in India for an invitation of professor Sebastian from the Congregation of priests of Saint Thomas Apostle. Listen: once I received the invitation from Miss Susan Morgan from Ivory Cost I’d have left anyway, but I’d have kept my links to the old country of India. I’d have made it one of my subjects, because there it was inside me, colonizing every cell, an addiction do deep it could not be destroyed without killing the addict too; or so I naively believed. My dream was of an India which would deserve me, which would show that it had been right for me to remain. And of course there was somewhere I could go. I locked up my flat, dismissed the servants and went to see professor Sebastian. I’ll tell you how it feels, after all these seventeen days of being there. It feels like an ending in the middle pathway of my life. A necessary ending, without which the second half would have been impossible. Freedom, then? Not exactly. Not quite a liberation, no. It feels like a divorce with my photographer’s profession up to date. I was the one who sat around waiting, telling myself, it’ll be okay, the Indian children will think better of it, they’ll come back to me and all manner of thing shall be well. At the end of a period of life the moment comes when you have to turn away from there, from the unbearably beautiful memory of the way you were, and turn towards the rest of your life. That’s me at this point in this story.
From time to time my friends from India spoke a local dialect that made no sense at all to me. However, conversation quickly became redundant. They took me to the House of the Indian Fathers the Pallottines, who have been with me together on the feast of Saint Xavier at Goa. Here I met the other journalist, the one of whose existence I had previously been unaware. There boredom and laziness saved my life. I could say I enter passionate, dangerous action be the experience of spending a day in the company of the men and women, who wore the similar clothes and boots as myself. Their faces might have learned me lots about the greatness of the church. In the region of Goa that we had reached by a plane the polyphonic reality of the road disappeared and was replaced by silences, mutenesses as vast as the land. I drove towards my fate. A deeply rutted dirt path led off the country road towards “prince Thomas” mysteries. There was his kingdom, a gymnasium for teenagers. It seemed, an unreality of India here disappeared. I saw the teenagers close their school and tell them about Poland. Here was a wordless truth, one that came before language, a being, not a becoming.
The next day after our returning to Mumbai I left city without telling about it nobody and plunged into the hard heart of India. I would enter rural India, learn something about rhythm of Indian culture also. A church in India. His ranches were spread across rural Maharashtra and Madhya Pradesh. A cautious driver gave us a lift to the railway station. We had reached our destination by a train the next day. Ujjain- a journey to the centre of the earth. Our colleague looked out for us at the railway station. The air grew hotter with every mile, the wind seemed to blaze more fiercely on my cheeks. The local bugs(“mosquitoes”) seemed larger and hungrier than their city cousins, and I was, as usual, lunch. The road never emptied: bikes, horse-drawn carts, burst pipes, the blare of buses and trucks. People, people. Running dogs, lounging cattle, exploded rubber tyres prominent among the piles of detritus that were everywhere, like the future. Groups of youths on the feast at Ujjain with orange headbands and flags. Tea stalls. The omnipresence of gods. Everywhere around me, life was striving, pullulating, the right to see another day of life. This was life in its pure form, life seeking no more than to remain alive. In the universe of the road, the survival instinct was the only law, the hustle the only game in town, the game you played until you dropped. To be here was to understand why professor Sebastian was popular among the students also. He was a miracle man, a prophet.
On the Seminary at Ujjain I found a hiding place from which I could work by day. I became invisible, invincible. I gave classes from philosophy of Emmanuel Levinas there for fifty listeners. On December 12,2009 (Saturday) I have preached a sermon in the Seminary’s chapel about a vocation of Zacchaus. To celebrate an anniversary of the revelations of Holy Mary of Guadalupe I said a song of a Monastery Of Jasna Góra at Częstochowa in Poland. During the next days I saw the nuns of Saint Therese the Great. The priests of Saint Thomas like the monks lead an austere life there. To keep myself busy while the Lord examined the pictures of my life of today, I began to pick up the volumes from the Seminary’s library. I had been reading my way through the old texts and commentaries. The books in Greek and Sanskrit were beyond me. The ones I could read had captured me, drawing me into their cosmos of savage divinity, of destiny that could be neither diluted nor avoided, but only heroically endured, because one’s fate and one’s nature were not separate things, only different words for the same phenomenon. There were villages buried in the backlands that never knew about the British Empire, villagers to whom the names of the nation’s leaders and founding fathers would mean nothing. To journey down some of these tracks was to travel back in time for over a thousand years. The professors of the Seminary of “Ruhalaya” at Ujjain as if lived happily ever after and were constantly told that village India was the “real” India, a space of timelessness and gods, of moral certainties and natural laws, of the eternal fixities of caste and faith, gender and class. Such statements were made as if the real were solid, immutable, tangible. Whereas the most obvious lesson of travelling between the city and the village, between the crowded street and the open field, was that reality shifted. Where the plates of different realities met, there were shudders and rifts. Chasms opened. A man could lose his life. At the time of my visit in India all manner of bizarre rumours were in the air. Those about deputies’ electoral fraud. Would the Prime Minister resign, or try to cling to power? The unthinkable was becoming thinkable. I still was watching television I have seen the match on cricket.
And now I must sing the last song of India that will ever pass my lips, I must quit my old stamping grounds once and for all. Here’s an irony worth a shake of the head or a rueful grin: that the severance of my connection with the country of my birth should come to pass at the point of my deepest intimacy with it, my broadest knowledge, my years as a photographer had opened my eyes to the old place, and my heart as well. I had started be searching for what my mother had seen in it, but soon I began to see it for myself, to make my own portrait, my own selection from the overwhelming abundance that was everywhere on offer. After a period of feeling an odd, alienated disconnection, feeling it as something not chosen but simply so, I was seeing my way, through the camera lens, of being a “proper” Indian. Yet it was the thing I most rejoiced in, my photographer’s craft, that ensured my banishment. For a while this created problems for me of value, of defining right thought, right action. I didn’t know which way was up any more: what was ground, what sky. The two seemed equally unsubstantial to me.
I was writing about my journey into the heart of a great country of an India, but it’s just another way of saying goodbye. Now I left my Mumbai’s apartment. Probably I would never again set foot in those rooms; nor on that street, nor in that city, nor in any part of India, though it remained a part of me, as essential as a limb. I suppose the corruption of money and the corruption of power is also here. For that reason once day I was heading full of anticipation towards a new life, the life I wanted, but I had no sense of having burned my boats. And so farewell, my country. I won’t phone you in the middle of the night and hang up when you reply. I won’t follow you down the street when you step out with some other fellow. Probably I still have a landscape of a lucky youth. But my home is burned, my parents dead, and those I loved have mostly gone away. Those whom I still love I must leave behind for good. India, I have sum in your warm waters and run laughing in your village. I have walked your filthy streets. For many days your malaria mosquitoes would bite me wherever I went. India, my crowd, my everything at once, my mother and my first great truth. It may be that I am not worthy of you, for I have been imperfect, I confess. I may not comprehend what you are becoming, what perhaps you already are, but I am old enough to say that this new self of yours is an entity I no longer want. Though India is a fount of my imagination, source of my savagery, breaker of my heart. Nothing remains except to say goodbye.